Dermaplaning Gone Wrong? Why Your Skin Is Flaring & Medical Next Steps

Dermaplaning is often marketed as a safe, quick way to remove dead skin and peach fuzz for smoother, brighter skin. When performed properly, it can improve texture and help skincare products absorb better. But if your skin is suddenly red, burning, breaking out, or peeling after dermaplaning, you're not imagining it—something likely went wrong.

The good news: most reactions are treatable. The key is understanding what happened and knowing when to seek medical care.

Below, we'll walk through the most common causes of a dermaplaning flare-up, what you can do next, and when to speak to a doctor.

---

What Is Dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning is a physical exfoliation procedure that uses a sterile surgical blade to gently scrape away:

• Dead skin cells
• Fine facial hair (vellus hair)
• Surface debris

It can be done in a medical office, spa, or at home using over-the-counter tools. However, professional dermaplaning performed by a trained provider carries less risk than DIY methods.

Because dermaplaning removes the outermost layer of skin (the stratum corneum), it temporarily weakens your skin barrier. That's where problems can begin.

---

Why Your Skin Is Flaring After Dermaplaning

If your skin is reacting, one (or more) of the following may be happening:

1. Skin Barrier Damage

The most common issue after dermaplaning is over-exfoliation.

When too much of the protective outer layer is removed, your skin can't properly:

• Retain moisture
• Defend against irritants
• Protect against bacteria

Symptoms of barrier damage:

• Burning or stinging
• Redness
• Tightness
• Increased sensitivity
• Flaking or peeling
• Sudden breakouts

This can happen if:

• The blade was pressed too firmly
• The procedure was repeated too soon
• You used retinoids or exfoliating acids before or after
• Your skin was already irritated

---

2. Contact Dermatitis (Allergic or Irritant Reaction)

Sometimes the reaction isn't from the blade itself—it's from products applied before or after dermaplaning.

Because dermaplaning increases skin permeability, ingredients that normally wouldn't irritate you may suddenly trigger inflammation.

Common triggers include:

• Fragrances
• Preservatives
• Essential oils
• Retinoids
• Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
• Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)
• Benzoyl peroxide

Signs of contact dermatitis:

• Red rash
• Itching
• Burning
• Swelling
• Small blisters
• Oozing or crusting

If you're experiencing these symptoms and want to better understand what's happening to your skin, Ubie's free AI-powered Contact Dermatitis symptom checker can help you identify whether your reaction is more likely irritant-based or allergic—giving you clarity before your next healthcare visit.

---

3. Infection

Although less common, dermaplaning can introduce bacteria into the skin—especially if:

• The blade was not sterile
• You touched your face afterward
• You applied contaminated products
• You dermaplaned over acne lesions

Possible infections include:

Bacterial Infection

• Increasing redness
• Warmth
• Swelling
• Pus
• Pain that worsens instead of improves

Folliculitis

Inflamed hair follicles can look like acne but may feel tender or itchy.

Cold Sores (Herpes Simplex Reactivation)

If you have a history of cold sores, dermaplaning can sometimes trigger a flare.

If you notice spreading redness, fever, severe swelling, or significant pain, speak to a doctor promptly.

---

4. Acne Flare-Ups

Many people believe dermaplaning prevents acne. In reality, it can sometimes worsen it.

Reasons include:

• Spreading bacteria across the face
• Irritating active acne
• Triggering inflammation
• Using heavy products afterward

If you dermaplane over inflamed pimples, you risk:

• Delayed healing
• Scarring
• Infection

Breakouts that develop within a few days may be irritation-based rather than true acne.

---

5. Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

If your skin is darker in tone or prone to pigmentation, dermaplaning irritation can trigger dark spots after inflammation settles.

This is more common in:

• Medium to deep skin tones
• People with melasma
• Those prone to acne marks

Preventing further irritation is critical to reducing this risk.

---

What To Do Right Now

If your dermaplaning experience has gone wrong, focus on calming and protecting your skin.

Step 1: Stop All Active Products

For at least 7–10 days, avoid:

• Retinoids
• Vitamin C
• AHAs/BHAs
• Benzoyl peroxide
• Scrubs
• Fragrance-containing products

Keep your routine extremely simple.

---

Step 2: Repair the Skin Barrier

Use:

• A gentle, fragrance-free cleanser
• A thick, bland moisturizer (ceramide-based is ideal)
• Petrolatum or occlusive ointment at night if very dry

Less is more. Your skin needs recovery time.

---

Step 3: Protect From Sun Exposure

After dermaplaning, skin is more vulnerable to UV damage.

Use:

• Broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher
• A mineral sunscreen if sensitive
• Physical protection (hat, shade)

Sun exposure during a flare can worsen redness and pigmentation.

---

Step 4: Watch for Red Flags

Seek medical care if you notice:

• Rapidly spreading redness
• Severe swelling
• Fever
• Pus
• Intense pain
• Blistering
• Signs of an allergic reaction (facial swelling, difficulty breathing — call emergency services immediately)

Do not ignore worsening symptoms.

---

When to Speak to a Doctor

Most dermaplaning reactions improve within one to two weeks with proper care. However, you should speak to a doctor if:

• Symptoms last longer than 10–14 days
• You suspect infection
• You develop blisters or crusting
• You have a history of eczema, rosacea, or psoriasis
• Hyperpigmentation develops
• You experience severe discomfort

A healthcare provider may prescribe:

• Topical corticosteroids
• Antibiotics
• Antiviral medication
• Barrier-repair treatments
• Prescription anti-inflammatory creams

If anything feels severe, unusual, or life-threatening, seek immediate medical attention.

---

How to Prevent Future Dermaplaning Problems

If you plan to try dermaplaning again, consider these precautions:

Choose a Qualified Professional

Medical-grade dermaplaning performed by trained providers reduces risk significantly.

Avoid If You Have:

• Active acne
• Rosacea
• Eczema
• Psoriasis
• Active infections
• Very sensitive skin

Prep Properly

• Stop retinoids 5–7 days prior
• Avoid exfoliating acids
• Ensure skin is calm before treatment

Space Treatments Appropriately

Dermaplaning should not be done more often than every 4–6 weeks.

Overdoing it leads to chronic irritation.

---

A Calm but Honest Perspective

Dermaplaning can be safe and effective when done properly. But it is still a controlled injury to the skin. When things go wrong, it's usually due to:

• Over-exfoliation
• Poor technique
• Improper aftercare
• Pre-existing skin sensitivity

Most flares are temporary and manageable. However, ignoring persistent symptoms can lead to infection, scarring, or pigmentation changes.

If you're unsure what's happening, start by simplifying your routine and consider using Ubie's free AI-powered Contact Dermatitis symptom checker to better understand your symptoms. Then follow up with a medical professional if symptoms persist.

---

Final Takeaway

If your dermaplaning experience has left your skin red, irritated, or breaking out:

• Pause all actives
• Repair your skin barrier
• Protect from the sun
• Monitor closely
• Speak to a doctor if symptoms worsen or last longer than two weeks

Your skin can recover—but it needs time and the right care.

When in doubt, especially if symptoms are severe or spreading, speak to a doctor promptly. Your skin is resilient, but serious infections or allergic reactions require proper medical treatment.